The Chlamys

The simple cloak worn by soldiers, hunters, and travelers.

By Andrew Yamato

The chlamys is a simple wool cloak worn over a chiton or by itself. Essentially a large rectangle, it was most commonly worn doubled and pinned over the right shoulder, with the fabric draping asymmetrically across the wearer’s body and held in place by small bronze weights on the corners. Despite this simplicity (or perhaps because of it), it can be a difficult garment to get right.

I recommend starting with a 2-2.5 meter length of standard width (see below) medium/heavyweight plain weave wool (400-500g/14-17oz). Plain (tabby) weave is important as it is the only weave attested in this era. A substantial wool is required because the chlamys doubles as a bedroll, which is probably why it was generally associated with outdoorsmen like soldiers, hunters, and travelers. Despite its weight, we have found it to be very comfortable even in the baking heat of a Greek summer, where it serves to shield the body from the sun while admitting cool breezes.

As a rule, I like to make Greek garments with whole pieces of cloth — that is, with both selvedge edges intact — because the Greeks did so themselves, weaving each piece to the necessary dimensions. While the size of ancient looms varied, however, most modern looms produce cloth in approximately 60”/1.5m widths. A chlamys made from such a wide piece will drag in the dust. If you double the chlamys lengthwise before folding and pinning it, however, you’ll have a shorter length that’s quite handy because both hands are left free (see my blue chlamys in the photo above). The extra layer provides weight that keeps the garment properly seated on the shoulders, presents a cleaner and more comfortable folded edge, and provides a more stable pinning point. To achieve a longer silhouette, simply fold only the upper third of the cloth inside the chlamys.

The precise point at which a chlamys should be pinned depends on the wearer, and how large an opening they require around their neck. 18” or so from the fold should suffice for most. Finally, small bronze weights which should be sewn to the two lower corners of the chlamys. Brass fishing weights are perfect for this.

The chlamys can also be worn in different ways. Rolled on the bias for maximum length, it is often depicted (even in combat scenes!), draped along the small of the back through both elbows. We also see it thrown over the left shoulder to cushion an aspis. Finally, we see it wrapped around the left arm as an ersatz shield.