The Chlamys

The simple and versatile cloak worn by soldiers, hunters, and travelers.

*Three pilgrims at ease on the Leuctra battlefield in their chlamydes.*

*Hermes was the patron god of travelers, and is often depicted wearing a chlamys. Visible here are the weights on the garment’s corners, providing its signature drape.*

By Andrew Yamato

The chlamys is a simple wool cloak, worn over a chiton or by itself. Most likely of Thessalian origin, these dashing garments become very fashionable in the Classical era, especially among young men. In Athens, at least, black chlamydes appear to have been associated with epheboi (young hoplite recruits in training), to whom they were issued upon induction.

Essentially a large rectangle, the chlamys was most commonly worn doubled and pinned over the right shoulder, with the fabric draping asymmetrically across the wearer’s body with the assistance of small weights sewn onto the corners. Despite this simplicity (or perhaps because of it), it can be a difficult garment to get right.

Start with a 2-2.5 meter length of standard width (see below) medium/heavyweight plain weave wool (300-500g/11-17oz). Plain (tabby) weave is important as it is the only weave attested in this era. I recommend a substantial wool because I suspect the chlamys doubled as a bedroll, which would help account for why it was associated with outdoorsmen like soldiers, cavalrymen, hunters, and travelers. We have found even heavier versions to be quite comfortable even in the baking heat of a Greek summer, serving to shield the body from the sun while admitting cool breezes.

This illustration shows a basic method of pinning a chlamys, but given the width of most modern fabrics, I recommend folding the top hem down (toward the inside) to achieve the desired height before pinning.

*Brass fishing weights sewn to each corner of the selvedge edges.*

As a rule, I like to make Greek garments with whole pieces of cloth — that is, with both selvedge edges intact — because the Greeks did so themselves, weaving each piece to the desired dimensions. While the size of ancient looms varied, however, modern looms consistently produce cloth in approximately 60”/1.5m widths. A chlamys made from such a wide piece will drag in the dust. Rather than cutting it, which will leave a ragged edge unless it is hemmed (which I think the ancients generally did not do, as evidenced by the fluid edge drape of garments), I recommend doubling the chlamys lengthwise before folding and pinning it. You’ll end up with a shorter length that’s quite handy because both hands are left free (see my blue chlamys in the photo above), a cleaner and more comfortable folded edge, beefier pinning points, and a garment that sits properly on the shoulders rather than sliding off them. To achieve a longer silhouette, simply fold only the upper third (or less) of the cloth inside the chlamys.

The precise point at which a chlamys should be pinned depends on the wearer, and how large an opening they require around their neck. 18” or so from the fold should suffice for most. Finally, small weights should be sewn to the lower corners of the chlamys. Brass or lead fishing weights are perfect for this.

The simplicity of the chlamys allowed it to be worn in many different and often quite practical ways: